Kazimierz Nightlife, Pubs, Bars and Clubs
Kazimierz Bars and Nightlife
A brisk 15 minute walk or short tram ride from Krakow’s Old Town, the old Jewish district of Kazimierz boasts a wealth of otherworldly bars pubs, and clubs, many of which have reached cult status – offering a strong alternative in the Krakow nightlife scene. Kazimierz is by no means a secret in Krakow, though it is slightly off the beaten track - far enough off centre to elude most of the hardcore booze cruisers, despite having some of the cheapest drink prices in town. Less tourist orientated, and a far cry from the grandeur of the Old Town, Kazimierz has more of a local, rustic quality, a little rough around the edges but charming nonetheless. Kazimierz bars can transport you – more so then your average, ale fuelled tavern. Expect smoky, candle lit grottos with the added ingredient of phantasmagoria.
Often likened to Soho or Montmartre, beyond being a magnet for would-be poets, dossers and tramps, as well as the off-beat bohemian select, I’m not sure that the comparison is wholly founded. Once a marshy island encircled by the river Vistula, Kazimierz became a centre of Jewish culture that endured for over 500 years. But World War II saw the mass deportation of Krakow’s Jewish community, many of whom were sent to the Krakow Ghetto, just across the river in Podgorge. After the War, Kazimierz was a town dispossesed, and many of the buildings fell into serious disrepair. But cheap rent and a rich heritage attracted a wave of artists, as well as bums and members of the underworld - and Kazimierz remained something of a edgy backwater tenement disctrict until fairly recently.
Most Kazimierz bars have all the character of having been ensconced in gothic bohemia for at least a century, but despite appearances, nightlife round these parts is a pretty recent phenomenon. It wasn’t until the mid 90’s that the Kazimierz bar scene began to take off. The defining moment was the emergence of the now legendary cult bar ‘Alchemia’ (5 Estery st, facing onto Nowy Square) – the brainchild of two local dreamers, one philosopher, one dramaturge – and never has a bar been so aptly named. They’ve managed to create a cavernous, neo-gothic lair of burlesque enchantment. The medieval art of alchemy speaks from every gloom filled crevice and corner, and can often be heard drifting up from the cellar in the form of mesmerising jazz riffs. But the notion wasn’t just plucked from thin air: Kazimierz became a veritable breeding ground for ‘cult bars’ - a host of other specimens followed, most of them original in their own way, but all sharing something of the ‘gothic sheek’ of the archetypal Alchemia.
Kazimierz is now a labyrinth of bars, cafes, restaurants and tea dens, a real hotspot for food and drink in Krakow. And if its not ramshackle mystique you’re after, fear not, the Kazimierz bar scene has a lot more to offer. Many of the more recently opened bars have gone with a more contemporary feel, utilising modern lighting and minimalist design and often have an outside wooden decking. There’s a strong tradition of live music in Krakow and in Kazimierz in particular, with a strong tradition of jazz, but the odd rock and indie outfit does the rounds, as well as traditional Jewish folk bands. A whole world of underground cellar clubs open up after dark and the DJ scene is fairly decent. In summer months relax and chill out in the ambience of one of the many beer gardens and courtyards that are scattered throughout the district. The heart of the Kazimierz bar scene is in Nowy Square: most of the old favorites can be found in the vicinity, or a short distance away in and around ‘Szeroka’, the older Jewish Square. For full listings and reviews see our bars and clubs directory.